Sculptured Stiletto Nail with 3D Encapulated Roses

This instruction video shows you how to create a beautiful 3D floral design, encase it with an acrylic overlay, and apply some painted nail art on top to make it really stand out

We're going to do an encapsulated rose now. This nail has already been prepped and has already had it's stiletto form applied, so if you're not sure how to do that take a look back at those videos now.

We're using mega white and a purple to do our rose with, you're going to dip into your mega white and your purple at the same time so that you pick up two colours on your brush, place the bead on and then wait.

3D is about patience, if you work with it too fast it's just going to flatten out and not look very nice, if you wait for it to start turning matte an then mold it, it's going to look a lot nicer. So when that bead has turned matte, get your brush into it and separate it so that you make a crescent shape again, wait for that bead so set a bit more then you're going to turn your brush round to a reverse method and press that petal out.

Same again with your next bead, two colours into your brush at the same time, take your liquid out and place the bead on. Wait for it to set a bit cut into it, spread it out into a crescent shape and wait for it to set a bit. Coming from the back of the petal and press it out. Another bead, pick up exactly the same, place it on and let it set a bit. While that one is setting I'm going to work onto a leaf so I'm picking up white and green on the same bead.

Place that on this time and instead of waiting for that to set, you're going to get this bead into a point before it sets and then wait. Then we can go back and work on that bead we were waiting to set. Cut into it, spread it out, then press it out from the back of the bead and then go back to your leaf and press it out.

Picking up another bead for the flower, same again white and then purple and place it inside your existing petals. I'm going to start another row further up now while those beads are setting. As you get good at it you will be able to do two or there beads at a time. So again, cutting into it and spreading it out, press it back so it's starts to overlap the last petal. Another bead on the inside of the first row again with your leaves, don't forget to get it to a point before the acrylic starts to set.

Centre bead: come in at a ninety degree angle and create a little doughnut in the middle of that rose. Going to do a few more leaves before we cap the rest of this nail. We can now cap this whole nail in pink acrylic. Concentrate on your side walls whenever you're doing any form of sculpting. Don't forget to check your stress point before you finish. We're going to let that nail set a little bit before we pinch it.

Place your pinching tool on, you can give it a little bit of a squeeze when it's a stiletto but not too much. Take your pinching tool off and use your fingers to press the end of the stiletto together, its almost as if you're rolling it between your fingers. Then place the pinching tool back on and leave it there for a few minutes. We can take the pinching tool off now and we can take our form off. Make sure that when you take your form off your client you do so in a downward motion so you don't hurt the hyponychium. So this nail is now ready to file.

When you file over an encapsulated design, you will file off some of that 3D work a little bit - don't worry you will still get that depth of that flower. We're going to do a little bit of hand-painting on this nail so we're going to smooth it down with a white block. Then you can remove your dust. Then we're just going to trap that dust into that towel.

So, what we're going to do is highlight certain areas of that rose and the leaf using our white paint. So water down your white paint a little bit so it goes a bit further. Let that paint dry and then this nail is ready for a gel top coat. Get your client to put her finger into the lamp for two minutes. To finish this nail off I'm just applying a small amount of cuticle oil round the nail and don't forget to go underneath as part of this nail will be transparent.

And that's some encapsulated roses done.